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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

A Shocking Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the owner’s son, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing spot, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary achievement.